Wheat in France

A History

Jan 28, 2025

Right now, many of us are dreaming of taking a long vacation. So this week, we’re traveling (metaphorically) to France.

The idea of French baking culture is captivating for many of us who don’t get to experience it on a regular basis. And no, we’re not talking about picking up a chicken salad sandwich from your local Pret a Manger. Similarly, the question of how so many people can eat so much bread yet stay slender has been a major topic in the fad diet world. While we won’t be addressing that question today, other than to say that in 2024 France had an obesity rate of 17%, compared to 40% in the U.S., we will be talking about France’s long history of wheat agriculture and its strong culture of and real appreciation for bread and pastry.

We here at Atla’s love it when people rush in to buy our bread products. But we don’t want to start riots–at least not like the French Bread Riots of the late 18^th Century. Why? Well, let’s start at the beginning.

Early History

Agriculture in France may go back as far as 2,000 B.C.E. when the region of France was controlled by the Gauls. The Romans, lead by Julius Cesar, invaded between 58 and 50 B.C.E. Under the Roman Empire, agriculture in France benefitted from better technologies. However, the resulting feudal system where the peasants were forced to work the noble’s land lead to much resentment. Turns out, forcing people to live in hunger and poverty while they produce food and wealth for a few rich lords tends to eventually backfire. [1] [2]

1775: The Flour War

The Flour War referred to a series of clashes between the impoverished commoners and the government of France. Some clashes were organized demonstrations, while others were spontaneous lootings and riots. At one point during that year, over 300 riots occurred in under a month. Under the poor leadership and trade management of King Louis the XVI, and due to an unfortunately terrible harvest that year, bread prices soared. Many years of inequality finally came to a head. Did you know that one of the titles given to the King of France was “The First Baker”? Ensuring that everyone had bread was a key duty of this role, and Louis XVI was failing miserably. [3] [4]

Did Marie Antionette actually say, “Qu’ils mangent de la brioche” which we translate to “Let them eat cake”? Actually, she probably didn’t. One theory is that the idea of oblivious noblewomen suggesting starving peasants fill up on sweets was old folklore, repurposed to explain how misunderstood the French commoners felt. Another is that the French philosopher Jean-Jacques Rousseau attributed the quote to her as propaganda, although researchers have doubts about this theory. Regardless of what was actually said, the French felt betrayed by their government. [5]

The French Revolution

It all came to a head on July 14^th, 1789, when the French stormed the Bastille. The period of unrest that began in 1775 had only become more fraught due to a booming population putting increasing pressure on the food system and the French people’s obsession with bread. It is estimated that the French public spent 60% to 80% of their budget on bread. Researchers think they were simply not interested in giving up their carb-heavy diets to accommodate the king’s poor management of their national food supply. [4]

The French Revolution lasted ten years, and it ultimately resulted in Louis XVI and Marie Antoinette being executed. Even after the fact, there was still much bloodshed, as often happens when figuring out the details of a new government. In many ways, the French Revolution’s biggest contribution was instilling and cementing the ideas of representational democracy in the French people. Although it wasn’t just about bread, the literal hunger of the people turned into a hunger for representation and rights. [6]

The Last 150 Years

Wheat has continued to play an important role in France. Just think about Vincent Van Gogh’s beautiful and captivating paintings of French wheat fields. It is even thought that one of these such works, Wheatfield with Crows, was the last thing he ever painted. In it, the glorious wheat fields take center stage, their golden hues seeming an almost heavenly touch to the otherwise dark and mournful work. [7]

The last 150 years also marked the development of many of the modern bread and pastry products that we know and love today. The most iconic of these is, of course, the Baguette. While no one can say with complete certainty how this loaf style came into being, it is commonly thought that it was the result of a law from 1919 or 1920 that dictated that French bread bakers were forbidden from working before 4 AM. As such a large percentage of the French are bakers, this law protected the quality of life of many. However, it posed a challenge for bakers who wanted to provide bread for their early morning customers. The traditional large round loaves simply would not be baked through by the time early morning customers came looking for breakfast. It is thought that the Baguette was developed because its narrowness allowed it to ferment and bake quickly enough to be out of the oven in time for breakfast. [8]

Similarly, pastry in France dates back hundreds of years, but the last few decades have seen the rise of a new generation of pastry chefs, including Pierre Hermé, Cédric Grolet, and Amaury Guichon. Yet, the French classics like macarons, madeleines, financiers, and canalés, still captivate the hearts of many.

Wheat in France Today

France grows the most wheat of all the countries in the European Union. One reason for this is wheat crops need a lot of space, and France has plenty of arable land. Another is that wheat and the bread made from it play major roles in the French diet, with about six billion Baguettes being eaten every year. [9]

Most of the wheat grown in France is soft wheat, as opposed to the hard wheats commonly grown in the U.S. Soft wheats in France are even used for bread making, despite their lower gluten content. France is also a significant producer of barley and of barley malt. This makes the cereal industry a major employer in France, and the exports of cereal products brought in more than seven billion euros in 2021. [10]

France’s wheat production is already feeling the effects of climate change. Lack of rain means the wheat berries aren’t able to grow as big as they should, resulting in smaller harvests. And when it does rain, unusually large storms at the wrong time of year can delay necessary steps like sowing the wheat crops. Mild winters allow pests to thrive, increasing their numbers year after year. [11]

So, next time you bite into a Baguette or enjoy a sweet French treat, think about the history that went into making these products what they are today. What lies in store for the future of French wheat and baking? Only time will tell.

This week’s recipe is for Cranberry Financier Bars, our take on the French classic. Let’s get baking!