Grain Networking
How to Source Local Grains Anywhere
One of the most exciting things about moving to a new area is learning about the local food culture. Before moving to Vermont, Mauricio and I had never even heard of a maple creemee! (And if you haven’t either, it’s basically soft serve flavored with maple syrup, and it’s delicious.) Moving to a new area also means that the word “local” takes on a new meaning. As bakers who are focused on milling and baking with local grains, we knew familiarizing ourselves with the types of grains grown in Vermont would be a fun challenge.
So, how does a person do grain networking? There are three main ways, and they’re probably pretty obvious: word of mouth, the internet, and grain networking communities. And yet, when it comes to sourcing grain, being able to navigate each of these methods is vital. Most grain farmers that grow artisanal and heritage varieties have very small operations that can be hard to find.
If you’re only interested in sourcing whole grain berries, that further limits the options. Many small farmers do not have access to the very expensive grain cleaning equipment needed to sell whole berries. Milled flour can be a bit easier to come by as many farmers mill their berries into flour in lieu of the last cleaning step. It’s up to you if you want to mill your own berries for full-inclusion flour or use sifted flour in your baking. If you are looking for whole berries, be sure to communicate that early on as it can be a deal-breaker for some farmers.
Another consideration is shipping vs. local pickup. Most of the grain farmers I’ve reached out to offer shipping, although it is usually quite expensive. For grains that are not available locally, such as the Sonora Wheat that we source from Ramona Farms, shipping is our only option. If you’re reaching out to a farmer based in another area or state, make sure they can ship.
For locally grown grains, we try to arrange local pick up to save on shipping fees and to save a step for the farmers. This past week I took an hour and a half drive up to Morningstar Farm in Glover, VT, and it was quite the fun road trip. Seeing the farm in person and meeting the owner was a real treat! However, road trips of this nature can be quite difficult to fit into a busy schedule. I suggest planning ahead and getting all the grain you’ll need for a season in one trip. And, of course, communicate with the farmer first to make sure the grain will be ready for you when you arrive!
Morningstar Farm is a lovely operation that we learned about through word of mouth. Other local farms, such as NEK Grains, we’ve found through googling. I took a trip out to NEK Grain’s farm shop last fall, and it was a beautifully done little store with a window that looks directly into the milling room. Even though I was buying whole wheat berries, I appreciated being able to see their milling setup. It’s a great reminder that local milling is the best milling.
We’ve also made connections with farmers in the region through grain networking communities. We’re proud members of the Common Grain Alliance which covers the mid-Atlantic region. Even though we’re farther north than everyone else, the grains in that region are still closer to us than those from other areas of the country. Recently, we connected with a farmer in Virginia who sold us some Nu East wheat berries that are just beautiful. Nu East is a varietal that was developed at NC State University to thrive in the increasingly damp conditions of the mid-Atlantic. Working with this grain is a meaningful way for us to support grain research in that region and to help develop a thriving economic system that supports farmers who grow climate-resistant varietals everywhere.
Google is a great way to find grain networking communities. Once you join one, you’ll have more opportunities to connect with the farmers in your area. I’ve found it helpful to maintain a spreadsheet with the farms we have a relationship with and the products they sell. Of course, many farmers grow different crops each year, so I reach out regularly to keep my spreadsheet up to date.
Sourcing local grains can be a challenge, but it’s a very rewarding one. With just a bit of effort, you can build your own grain network anywhere, and I think you’ll find doing so to be a very rewarding process.
Thanks for the articles on different grains. I grow durum, hard white, black barley and purple barley using primitive methods, no fossil fuel . I thresh and winnow by hand out in the wind. I also can grind flour on my metate or in a small electric mill both stone ground but I am interested in whether a baker prefers stone ground or if steel mills are adequate . I sieve my durum flour and use the bran portion for use as cream of wheat. It is so much better than store bought. My durum crop came in at 22.5 lbs. cleaned grain from 600 sq ft of garden space.
I brought the cleaned and sun dried berries into the house yesterday.